St Kew, Cornwall: Midwinter is the best time for us to visit heritage sites and speculate on legends, starting at the secluded St Winnow’s church
The stained glass window of St Kew’s church, with a tamed bear at the saint’s feet, is temporarily out of sight, penned in by a jumble of scaffolding. On a chilly hilltop a few miles to the south, St Mabyn’s tower features weathered carvings of heraldic beasts, including a muzzled bear pointing its snout northwards; inside, bears feature on crests of the Prideaux, Barratt and Godolphin families. Midwinter, when Cornwall is relatively free of visitors’ traffic, is a time to visit historic sites and speculate on legends, Arthurian myths and associated early reverence for the pole star encircled by the constellation of the Great Bear.
Secluded St Winnow, further south alongside the tidal River Fowey, is first on our itinerary, reached along narrow, winding lanes. The church is dedicated to a Celtic missionary who is depicted with a handheld grindstone – this holy man neglected the task of milling the monks’ flour in favour of more prayer time.
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